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Tuesday, December 30, 2008
You need to apply Nitrogen Sticks 8-16-16 in March or April as soon as you can break ground.
posted by Marieva 1:10 PM
Sunday, May 04, 2008
posted by Marieva 1:43 PM
In Feb. or March spray Tree with Dorment Oil Spray.
Spray with a Fruit Spray ( Guthion 35 W 50 W) Just a show of pink
Then spray every seven days
When apples are the size of a walnut thin to 8" apart on each branch
posted by Marieva 1:26 PM
Saturday, October 27, 2007
The best time to trim your peach tree is late Winter sometime the end of February for Boise.
I talked to a person at the garden place and they said when it is really hot in July it is best not to prune your things in Oct. because it causes to much stress on the plants and trees.
posted by Marieva 11:04 AM
Wednesday, September 05, 2007
I went to the Nursery this afternoon and talked to the person there and she looked up in the book on trees and this is what it suggested the problem could be.
1. Lack of Nitrogen she said in the spring add nitrogen sticks to your trees. The amount to add depends on the size of the trunk it will tell you how much on the package. It should be 8-16-16 kind to get.
2. Lack of water in draught time, the tree needs lots of water. She said the apple tree roots go about 3 to 4 ft deep down in the ground. Should dig around the tree to see how much water is getting down into the ground . She mentioned to water with a trickle of water coming out of the hose and to let it water that way for 1/2 a day .
3. Use dormant Oil spray when the petals have fallen off then if you have a fruit spray, to spray the tree with that. But they don't have any, because it has been taken off the market. You should spray according to what it says on the bottle .
4. Use coddling Moth traps for coddling moth.
posted by Marieva 3:39 PM
Fruit Drop and Hand Thinning Gardeners are often surprised when small apples and other fruit drop prematurely to the ground. However, premature fruit drop is relatively common on apples and other fruit trees. The home gardener shouldn't be alarmed if the fruit tree appears healthy. The fruit drop may simply be nature's way of reducing a heavy fruit load.
Two fruit drop periods commonly occur on apples. The "first drop" occurs shortly after petal-fall and may continue for 2 to 3 weeks. The fruit that falls during this period is pea-size and may be the result of poor pollination. Most apple varieties are considered self-unfruitful. These fruit varieties will produce little or no fruit when pollinated with their own pollen. Another variety (cultivar) is required for cross-pollination and fruit set. 'Jonathan' and 'Yellow Delicious' are two apple varieties which are notable exceptions. Each will produce a fairly good crop without cross-pollination. A lack of pollination may also be due to poor weather. Most fruit trees are pollinated by bees. They are most active on sunny, warm days. There is little bee activity during cool, rainy weather. Cool, rainy weather during the bloom period reduces bee activity, results in poor pollination, and may lead to fruit drop. Exposure to freezing temperatures during flower bud development and bloom may also cause fruit drop.
The "second drop" usually occurs in early June. (This is commonly referred to as "June drop.") The fallen apples are approximately 1/2 to 1 inch in diameter. The second shedding of fruit is often due to the competition among the developing fruit for food, water, and nutrients. This natural thinning removes excess fruit and allows the remaining fruit to develop properly. Hot, dry weather in late spring will contribute to fruit drop.
While the number of fruit which fall to the ground as a result of natural thinning may seem quite high, additional thinning may be necessary. Trees overloaded with fruit need additional thinning to (1) obtain large, high quality fruit at harvest; (2) allow development of flower buds for next year's crop, thus overcoming the tendency for some fruit trees to bear fruit in alternate years; and (3) prevent limb breakage. Hand thinning of apples should be done within 6 weeks of full bloom. Leave the largest apple in a cluster unless it is damaged. After thinning, the apples should be spaced about 8 to 10 inches apart on the branch. Pears, plums, and apricots may also require hand thinning. Fruit should be spaced about 6 to 8 inches apart on the branches following thinning.
This article originally appeared in the May 19, 1995 issue, p. 69.
Labels: fruit drop continued
posted by Marieva 3:27 PM
Wednesday, May 16, 2007
Green Beans Egg plant or Potatoes
Plant them 1" deep 4" apart 70 days before harvest time
Fertilize them 3 days after planted then every seven days for a total of 9 applications. Water at each time of feeding fertilizer
Carrots Jalopeno Peppers
Plant them 1/4" deep 2 rows 2" Apart 84 days till harvest time.
for a 30' row it takes 32 0z. of seed
Fertilize them 14 days after planting 16oz. for a 30' row when temperature is between 50 to 85 degrees, then do it for the next 5 weeks and water after each feeding of fertilizer
CORN Squash & Pumpkins
Plant them 1" deep require 7-10 days to come up
Fertilize them with a pre plant fertilizer before planting the corn 32 ounces per row and apply for 3 more weeks thereafter and water each time after feeding.
Picking Time 20 days after when, the silk turns dark brown and feels dried.
Plant them 14" apart 5" deep in a Mound takes 5 to 10 days to come up 41 days till harvest .
Fertilize apply preplant fertilizer during bed preparation and then apply weekly for 8 more weeks apply 16oz for a 30' row. Water daily they require allot of water in order to keep them sweet tasting.
Plant them 1/4 " deep 12" apart .
FERTILIZE during bed preparation. Apply Ammonium Nitrate at time of transplanting. Apply weekly feeding for six more weeks. Apply 16 oz. for a 30' row.
Plant them 36" apart each plant harvest when 6" long
FERTILIZE 32oz. per 30' row during bed preparation. Apply ammonium Nitrate 8oz. per 30' row at time of transplanting & 6 weeks thereafter. Water daily
TOMATO Basil & Asparagus
Plant 36" apart . Support them with cages or Stakes
FERILIZE 32 oz. at bed preparation. Apply Ammonium Nitrate 8os per 30' row. Apply weekly 3 days after transplanting and for 6 more weeks.
Plant them in 2 rows 3' apart 5" deep.
FERTILIZE At bed preparation time apply 32 oz. a preplant food . Apply ammonium Nitrate 8 oz at a time of transplanting and apply weekly 16 oz. per row 3 days after transplanting and for 6 more weeks thereafter.
POTATOES Beans & Horseradish
Plant them 4" deep cover with 2' soil and 8" apart. Harvest after tops have died down
FERTILIZE 32 oz. per 30' row during bed preparatin. Apply weekly 16 oz. 14 days after planting and then for 5 more weeks. Water at each feeding time and daily after frost. Cover them with soil after 2'' sprouts appear.
Plant them 1"deep 18" Apart. at 60 degrees weather. takes 10 days to come up. Harvest time when one cave dies 110 days
FETILIZE them during bed preparation time 32 oz. for a 30' row. Apply ammononium Nitrate 8 oz. per 30' row. Then apply at transplanting time 16 oz. per a 30' row Apply weekly feed for six more weeks. water daily.
6 lbs 16-8-16 fertilizer
1 1lb. magnesium sulfate ( Epson Salt at a drug store).
5 GRAMS ( TEASPOON BORAX).
Apply evenly down center of 30' row of soil bed.
posted by Marieva 7:23 AM
Monday, July 17, 2006
"How many bulbs do I plant and how far apart do I plant them?"
The number of bulbs to use in each area or bed is determined by the gardener and the requirements of the particular bulb species. Some people like to plant them thicker, whereas other prefer to spread them out.
As a rule, planting bulbs in clusters is more effective and striking than planting in uniform rows. Try alternating plantings with different blooming times so that the garden continues to provide color over a longer season.
Below is a quick reference chart for large plantings:
"How are the display gardens planted for the Tulip show?"
After working the soil, we will apply our bulb fertilizer on the soil surface. Then we place out bulbs 2 inches apart on the fertilized soil. Approximately 50 bulbs per variety in each display bed. Finally we cover the bulbs with six inches of medium fine barkdust. Due to how close together we plant the bulbs we dig them every year.
"What do I do with my bulbs when they stop blooming?"
After your tulips finish blooming, the seed pods need to be snapped off. This allows all the nutrients in the stem and leaves to flow to the bulb. Do not bend the stems or tie with a band. Let the stems die naturally. Perennials and annuals can be planted over the top of your bulbs to give color through the rest of spring and summer as the bulbs rejuvenate for next year.
"Do you dig your tulips fields every year?"
After the spring show in April, our crew will remove all the flower heads. This prevents the petals form dropping and creating disease in the fields as well as it promotes a larger bulb. We let the stems die naturally and then harvest in June. We dig our fields every June and plant the tulips into a different field every October. We rotate the fields to prevent disease and to avoid the volunteer tulips. We recommend you dig the tulips in your landscape every 3 years.
"When is the best time to lift (dig up) tulip bulbs?"
June is a good time to lift tulips. Once the foliage on the plant has turned brown and dried, the bulbs are ready to be dug. Use a garden fork rather than a shovel to help minimize the risk of digging through any bulbs.
"What should one do with the bulbs after they are lifted from the ground?"
Clean off the old roots, they should separate easily from the cluster of bulbs. Separate all the bulbs, there may be different sizes and numbers under each plant. Different varieties of tulips produce bulbs in different amounts and sizes. Of course, some years the weather may also affect your production. Store the bulbs for the summer in mesh bags, for plenty of air circulation, hung up in a cool place. An open box of wood or cardboard can be used also, but mice may more easily invade an open box. Remember the bulbs are alive and will suffer damage if stored in plastic or in boxes filled more than five inches in depth with bulbs. Keep the temperature below 90 F for best flowers in the spring.
"To dig or not to dig."
Tulips in cooler locations (hardiness zones 8 and under) do not have to be dug every year. To keep tulips healthy and productive, dig most tulips every three years. Tulips do not like to be crowded, that is the more bulbs in a hole the smaller the bulbs become each year, the fewer flowers produced. Small bulbs produce only leaves, but if replanted and cared for, the small bulbs grow into larger bulbs that produce flowers the following year.
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posted by Marieva 9:19 AM
Wednesday, July 05, 2006
We have beige color areas in the lawn and it will not green up so my husband said to go the Zamzows and see what he suggests we should get. We already added huma green to the lawn and it has been 4 weeks since we applied it and the lawn has not completely greened up. I gues you call it brown patches is the fungus we have. So this is what he suggested for us to do.
I went to Zamzows I tried to cut a section of lawn and take and could not get the shovel to go in. So I explained to him what we had already done this year so far on the lawn. He said we have a fungus so I got Bayer Fungus Control. If you feel that is not the problem dig a section out of the lawn and take to him and he can tell you what to do.
You need to clean the lawnmower blade before you mow the lawn because there is fungus on the blade and it will spread it to other areas of the lawn. He said we should not detatch the lawn now it is to warm you need to do that early first time you mow lawn.
This stuff is good for two months. it will do up to 4,000 sq/ ft. It was expensive but hopefully it will correct the problem.
posted by Marieva 9:58 AM